Fads pass, but classics remain, rarely more so than at Michael Kors, whose latest spruce and often superlative collection shown Tuesday was inspired by that most noble of all figures – his grandmother.
Granny Beatrice’s satin wedding dress to be exact, which ignited a great series of satin gowns; precision cocktails; neatest of negligees and an all-around expression of self-assured New York glamour.
Michael discovered the wedding dress in his own mother’s closet, who passed away in 2023. It dated back to her wedding to grandfather Austin before WW2.
“My mother threw out everything, she only liked new. But amazingly I found grandmother’s wedding dress still wrapped up in a garment bag,” marveled Kors, at a pre-show preview.
The result was a strong and confident collection in a very buffeted world. A half hour after exiting the preview, around the corner thousands of protestors marched across Fifth Avenue protesting the Israeli Defense Forces latest attacks in Gaza.
Like today, the 1930s – when grandma was married – was a time of political tensions. And Kors references ranged from thirties icon Carole Lombard to more contemporary stars – Kate Moss or Carolyn Bessette.
The heart of the collection was bias cut lingerie, added to strict tailoring. Though always with a modern twist, playing on Katharine Hepburn suits but updated in sculpted shapes and combined with cashmere hoodies.
“It’s full time timeless – deluxe, polished and urban,” punned Michael, who showed great bias-cut denim skirts, with shearling bombers, worn over ribbed and sleeveless cashmere tops. Note to fashion forecasters – fur may be rare in New York, but there has never been so much shearling on American runways in almost a decade.
Despite New York being known as the Big Apple, a name coined by jazz musicians to celebrate the city’s unique musical scene, many soundtracks are mixed by French DJs. Case in point, this tremendous assemblage which mixed in Alicia Keys classics like ‘This Girl is on Fire’ and Fallin’ with string versions of the same songs created by the Philharmonic Orchestra of Paris.
Corporately, Kors is now part of America’s biggest luxury group Tapestry. It also owns Versace, Coach, Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman. Kors is America’s greatest ever sportswear designer, and no slouch when it comes to handbags, like his new M-shaped clutch, which when turned on its side becomes a K.
“That way if you buy it, you get Michael and Kors in one bag,” he chuckled.
Most of the collection made in black, the polished vision of urban life – a trend not confined to New York, but now seen in Miami or Rio.
And though Versace might have a greater couture recognition to many people, it’s important not to forget that Michael’s business is at roughly six time as large as Donatella’s.
Not bad going to a young hopeful from Merrick, Long Island, who came to Manhattan in 1977 and dropped out of Fashion Institute of Technology after just nine months.
His grand mum would surely have been pleased.
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