In a busy few days of footwear presentations in Milan this season three stood out – Gianvito Rossi, Santoni and Jimmy Choo – as much for their innovative array of materials, as their slick staging.
Gianvito Rossi: Elegance and eccentricity
“I’ve had enough of quiet luxury,” insists Gianvito Rossi, in a tour of his via Santo Spirito showroom.
“So, I wanted a mix of chicness, elegance and sophistication with a dash of eccentricity,” he adds, pointing to a series of great shoes in padded patent leather in a crinkly soft ruby hue. Made with large sculptural knots at the toe and seen in mules, high-heels and platforms. Or finished with ruffled patent leather, freaky flamenco style. All eccentrically chic.
Though the biggest news was the unexpected fabric mix, like pumps and high heels finished with what look like explosions of feathers but were really teased out shearling.
In another unusual meeting, suede weekend boots made in thick wool knit above the ankle, that be rolled up and down to change the attitude. While Rossi’s cool pony skin booties and knee length boots were also very now, ideal equipment to march in the countryside or down the stairs of the casa di ringhiera were his showroom is located.
Santoni: Back on track
A timely sense of renewal at Santoni, which presented its strongest winter collection in eons in the historic Liberty era Galleria degli Meravigli near the stock exchange.
Once again, driven by atypical material mixes. Like severely With It boots, composed of putty leather bases, dense ecru wool legs and knit tops. Made also in a toffee and mustard version that was equally alluring.
While buckled slippers, mini evening totes, tasseled ballet shoes and even sneakers all came in shearling, adding in a kicky fashion element to Santoni, a brand that had been far too formal in recent seasons.
Presenting its footwear on top of faux chunks of white marble, Santoni also played neatly with knit uppers on shearling winter boots, though very much on its own terms.
“We felt it was time we injected a little more of a fashion element. We see great possibilities of growth in our women’s business,” explained Giuseppe Santoni.
A family-owned business with annual sales of €120 million, last year Santoni appointed a very experienced new non-family member, Eraldo Poletto as managing director.
The move seems to have freed up the creative juices of a newly trim Giuseppe, who after shedding several kilos, is pushing the envelope with his brand’s designs.
Jimmy Choo: Redefining glamour
“It’s about feeling elevated but always with a sense of style,” underlined Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo.
Top marks also for the best mise en scene for a footwear brand presentation this season, as the house partnered with Nilufar, the famed via della Spiga design emporium.
Hence, black pointy patent kitten heel pumps looked very at home on all metal school chairs; while sexy diamante slingbacks were fully in sync with brown leather and silver tubular arm chairs.
Like the collection, the setting blended mid-century references with contemporary polish: notably the crinkled patent leather evening bag tightened with silver chains and tassels.
And in a season of burgundy, Choi offered cool loafers with thick soles a retro futurist buckles as well as mini tote in the hue of the famed wine.
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