Published
February 26, 2025
On Tuesday night, Dean and Dan Caten celebrated their 30th anniversary show, the latest milestone by the most successful fashion brand ever created by foreigners in Milan. The twins recall the most magic moments.
The Canadian-born duo kicked off their runway life back in 1994. Already successful party promoters in Milan, they drew a large crowd to witness their fashion christening. Though, personally, I only made it to their second défilé or what they call their “Cottage Country Show”, staged on a balmy morning near the Navigli, Milan’s famous old canals.
Already one sensed that their kicky optimism and high-energy style had tapped into a yearning in Milan and elsewhere for designers who actually went out at night and understood what the young generation really wanted to wear.
The Catens have gone onto build a multi-million dollar business. And to dress everyone from Madonna in her iconic western video clip, “Don’t Tell Me”, to Beyoncé for her Super Bowl performance. The duo also has an impressive range, all the way to dress the four-time English Premiership Champions, Manchester City. And a great HQ, a former electric energy headquarters converted into office, show-space, inn, gym and rooftop restaurant with swimming pool. They have become one of the city’s great fashion institutions without every losing the DNA of the Wild North. And famed for their ovations, where they take their bow in matching outfits – whether disco dragoons, Klondike trappers or matinee idols.
So, FashionNetwork.com caught up with the twin brothers to get their take on a remarkable run in the world of style.
Fashion Network: This year will be the 30th anniversary of your first show. What are your biggest memories of that collection and runway event?
Dean and Dan Caten: You know, each and every one of our shows are like children to us and even if they say you shouldn’t have favorites we actually have. Starting from the launch of the women’s collection with the 24/7 show for FW03. We had a pink plane and Naomi opening – that was a remarkable moment that will remain forever iconic. And FW17, the first time that we had a co-ed show. When we had Christina Aguilera on the runway, the FW11 show where we presented the Iconic Skate boots that is now known by everybody; having Tyson Beckford walk for us; the Charlie’s Angels for SS09, with the trio of supermodels Esther, Nadege and Fernanda…
We have a lot of history and memories, and it is amazing to look back and see what we have done over the years, what we have accomplished.
FN: Sorry I missed that first show, but I believe I made number two. I have a great memory of a June show in an open space near Navigli, already bursting with your energy and optimism. What do you recall of that show?
D&D: Of course, you mean the Cottage Country show. There was the perfect situation – it was early morning, and we remember that the light that day was incredible. The show was set in a warehouse, and we included all the elements of Canada and what happens there during summer. We had a cottage, we showed a contemporary and wearable collection and there was also the first glimpse of the first Dsquared2 women.
We remember it as fun and cheeky, a very Dsquared2 show.
FN: When you first set off on the path to be designers, what goals did you set yourselves?
D&D: We strive to have fun and be ourselves – we want to be innovative, but at the same time stay true to ourselves and our vision.
FN: Pretty well every big brand in Milan was launched, if not designed, by an Italian. As one of the very few non-Italian designers to have built a real empire in Milan, how do your account for your success?
D&D: We’ve always said that we combine our Canadian heritage with an Italian twist and tailoring, and we think that’s been the real key to our success over the past thirty years.
FN: You have never been afraid to stage big, bold statement shows. What is your starting point before each one?
D&D: We think of a moment or a story that inspires us that has cultural resonance, and we go from there. We really understand the strength of the catwalk as a stage and that is what distinguishes us. We love the show, and we are involved in it in all aspects and it will always be spectacular. We like to entertain ourselves and our guests.
FN: Tell me about your three favorite all time shows?
D&D: Well, one of them certainly must be our first womenswear show with Naomi racing towards the pink jet – it’s forever an iconic moment for us and something we’ll always remember. Christina Aguilera closing our menswear Spring/Summer 2005 show in a leather mini-dress will forever be imprinted on our brains, as well as Brittany Murphy for Fall/Winter 2007 – we love the theatricality of that one. This one’s more recent, but we’re proud of Fall/Winter 2024 and the transformation machine. But really, we love all our shows because they all tell a particular story that we want to tell.
FN: You’re famous for your joint look at each finale. Who gets to decide what to wear?
D&D: There’s never any conflict – we’re one mind split into two bodies; we think the same and instinctually gravitate towards our own unique choices without even having to communicate.
FN: As the youngest of four brothers and five sisters, I know familial ties can be complicated. What’s the secret to your creative brotherly bond?
D&D: Our bond has always been our strength – a woman once said that we shared the same soul, and we really think that’s true. We grew up together learning from each other and we have created the brand together. Dsquared2 is about two creative forces – all the creativity, the beauty and everything that we choose reflects our shared passion and vision.
FN: Define the DNA of Dsquared2?
D&D: All our collections are about being brave and taking risks – it’s cliché but we always want our audience to expect the unexpected. We like to combine contrasts, often putting two things that may be diametrically opposed together – masculine and feminine, casual and glamorous, maximalist and restrained… all styled in an almost bricolage manner with a nod to pop culture.
FN: When people look back on Dsquared2, its creativity and legacy, what way would you like them to remember your brand?
D&D: We’d like to be remembered for being brave, taking risks, and being unapologetically ourselves. We developed a distinct aesthetic sense and a brand style that reflects who we are, how we live and what we love
FN: Fashion weeks in Europe in January – both menswear and couture – saw a lot of expressions of support for the LGBTQ, a community many designers see as under attack by a new angry authoritarianism. What are your thoughts on that?
D&D: In challenging times, we really like to continue to be positive; we’ve always infused acceptance and a sense of community into everything we do.
DSquared2 30th-anniversary show in Milan
Leave it to the Canadian duo to stage an epic show, the cast marching out of a wrecked brick garage, or arriving in a series of mighty wheels. From armored personnel carriers and Ford Mustang convertibles to an all-silver DeLorean and a vintage Rolls Royce – all took turns arriving in the huge warehouse done up like a nightclub.
All of the Caten’s great archetypes got an outing. Mad saucy trapper girls in giant puffers and lots of legs; a trio of rockers with Kiss goth makeup but in three-piece suits; Klondike gold diggers off to an all-night rave; sexy vampy rock goddesses with bumster leather pants and fur coats with trains; and a beautiful black rodeo gal with mini cocktail made of bands of Western belts.
A couple of leather dudes like extras from Querelle and Isabeli Fontana in a black chiffon tunic dress slashed from shoulder to ankle to reveal acres of skin. Before Naomi Campbell, inevitably, stomped down the catwalk in black leather thigh boots and a leather biker jacket, sporting the largest funky afro ever seen on a catwalk.
Leading to the arrival with sirens of NYC police car, from which a dominatrix leather police captain played by Brigitte Nielsen escorted two white collar criminals. You guessed it – Dean and Dan.
And amid huge roars, JT and Doechii took the floor in a call and response duet surrounded by the entire cast.
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