Haute couture in all its forms with Franck Sorbier, Viktor & Rolf, and Gaurav Gupta

Paris Haute Couture Week for the Spring/Summer 2025 collections has showcased sophisticated and highly inventive creations, such as those presented on Thursday by Franck Sorbier, who continues with his amazing artisanal work, Viktor & Rolf, which reinterpreted the codes of haute couture, and Gaurav Gupta, who blended spirituality and a futuristic vibe.

This season, Franck Sorbier created a collection full of contrasts. Black contrasted with soft hues, structured textures with lightweight ones, and power with finesse. The collection was inspired by the theme of barbarians and ancient Rome. Sorbier’s first silhouettes put the emphasis on materials. They featured dark dresses alternating with shimmering, metallic ones, made using the compression technique developed by Sorbier, in which different materials, such as velvet, taffeta and pleated fabrics, are assembled and stitched together.

The dresses consisted of panels that floated downward, while their tops looked almost like cuirasses. A sinuously shaped dress was made with swathes of bronze-coloured fabric, as if cut out of animal hide. Short A-line dresses with large collars, some adorned with fabric feathers, were reminiscent of the outfits of a Roman legions’ centurions.

They were made in a shiny, textured jacquard fabric, sometimes threaded with metal, sometimes with golden leaves, giving them a luxurious 1970s vibe. “These are young people’s looks, very cocktail party,” said Sorbier, adding that “it’s important for haute couture to have a young allure. It’s also a message for the future. We’re preparing tomorrow today.”

The show ended with ethereal silhouettes featuring pastel-coloured muslin dresses, vaporous and gathered at the top. They represented peace, embodied in young girls holding olive branches, accompanied by the melodious voice of opera singer Catherine Trautmann singing the Pie Jesu aria from Gabriel Fauré’s “Requiem”. As always, Sorbier managed to arouse emotion. He took a clear stand against war, displaying the symbol of peace on the back of his jacket.

As it often does, Viktor & Rolf took a tongue-in-cheek approach to haute couture. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren focused this time on a single silhouette, which they presented in 24 possible variations. “Beige silk gazar trench coat, white gazar shirt, blue gazar trousers,” recited an off-stage voice as each look walked out, every time introducing a totally different creation.

The trench coat played the starring role, often enveloping the body in voluminous coat-dresses, including sumptuous evening gowns and a majestic cape. In turns, the coats were richly decorated with knots, ruffles, gathers, pleated bands, or overflowed with strips of fabric with frayed hems. Some items featured oversize collars and burgeoning shoulders. Others morphed into a crinkled draped jacket, or a short biker-style top. In some cases, the coats dropped down to the ankles, cinched with a belt below the buttocks, or extended into a long train. In yet another version, the sleeves were tied at the waist in a huge knot, while the coat was reduced to a cloak covering just the thighs at the back of the trousers. One of Viktor & Rolf’s trench coats even turned into a dress for a doll attached to the model’s waist.

The label played the same magician’s tricks with the white shirt, turning into a dress, and featuring it in all possible shapes and puffed-up volumes. And with the blue trousers, transformed as needed into assorted shorts, gathered knickers, and of course into a skirt. The approach was reminiscent of a previous collection, that of Spring/Summer 2024, in which the designer duo presented four different versions of each wardrobe staple, each cut in different shapes.

Gaurav Gupta presented a high-impact collection emphasising striking, sculptural silhouettes. His models looked like goddesses or warriors from distant galaxies, clad in slinky black sheath dresses with oversized collars, their faces and heads adorned with masks and futuristic jewellery.

Garments in black velvet or silk were accented by gold and midnight blue metallic elements: gleaming brooches, serpents snaking across the chest, belts, metal bras, plastrons, and armour-like corsets. Ribbons floated airily around a top. Cascades of crystals beaded long dresses. Some silhouettes’ organic shapes were reminiscent of Iris van Herpen.

The collection was entitled “Across the Flame”, and was conceived as a celebration of resilience. The Indian designer, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London, is celebrating his label’s 20th anniversary this year. He was the victim of a fire which seriously injured him and his partner Navkirat Sodhi. The latter opened the show treading barefoot on the runway, wearing a tulle veil that barely hid his scars, and reciting a poem about his healing journey. Two models laced together into a single orange draped sari symbolised resilience in the collection.