Where the wild things dress

Though half the clothes in the latest Sacai show were for women, this was the most inventive collection of the European menswear season that ended Sunday.

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Inspired by the famed children’s book “Where the Wild Things Are” about a young man who is mysteriously transported to a forest jungle inhabited by huge friendly monsters, the collection blended naivety with the nattiest dressing.
 
At the heart of every Sacai show is composite couture – intermingling distant fabrics, or juxtaposing styles and functionalities. An assemblage style that has rarely been bettered than in this show.

Her ‘Wild Things’ sported eco fur caps and stoles over multi-paneled jackets, and wide pants with massive outside pockets, or trapper parkas. The latter worn by gals in sexy shearling lined canvas coats cut high like a sexy cocktail, or with a chocolate brown down puffer with a woolen blazer center.
 
It was a show that unveiled not one, but three collaborations, notably with Carhartt, and their washed canvas jackets in the same hue as the hairy creatures.
 
While, in a second season with Ugg, that brand invented deep shearling hiking boots for guys, or shearling conical boots or musketeers boots for women.

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As ever in Abe land, jackets were turned upside down and worn as skirts, or blazers finished with triple lapels or multi hems. Though this season with greater childishness. Chitose even printed several of the hairy monsters on T-shirts.
 
“We really wanted to bring these partners on board with us. So, we could really fly together with these old friends,” explained Chitose Abe, the ever-excitable designer of Sacai.
 
Who had French shoemaker J Weston provide brothel creepers in patchwork rawhide. In the final important show in the 12-day European menswear season that began in Florence on January 14.
 
“I love collabs, as they can bring something very new to us, and we can bring something to them,” added Abe, after receiving a warm embrace and compliments from Pharrell Williams.