East trying to understand west

East met west at Kenzo this season, even if not that harmoniously, in a collection that was greeted with almost deafening silence. 

See catwalk

One could politely describe this fall 2025 collection as a noble effort, but which did not quite gel. The collection marked the first by Japanese creator Nigo since the appointment of design director Joshua Alec Bullen, who joined Kenzo after impressing at Givenchy, another LVMH brand. The pair have been working closely for the past two months.
 
Presented inside the Musée de Chaillot, a fantastic 1930s complex on the Seine, whose show-space offered perfect views of the Eiffel Tower. The great monument appearing on a neat, zippered cardigan and also a pink shirt – placed alongside Japan’s most famous vista, Mount Fujimori.

Just like that pair, the fashion duo attempted to duet in two cultures, combining classic French tailoring and fine fabrics with Kenzo Takada’s love of crazy bright hues. Leading to a charming opening – felty, boxy jackets; red blooming pants; elegantly oversized businessmen coats or cardigans in mohair – created in sherbet lime, soft pinks or mid green.
 
Half the cast clutched red fabric roses; others held bottles hidden inside paper bags made of leather. A pun on New Jersey drinking laws? Where any bottle of beer has to be concealed, at pain of a fine.
 
But when it came to XXXL safari jackets in absurd garish paisley prints, it was hard to imagine what girl, or guy, would want to date someone dressed in these clothes. Too often the clothes were just about fine, but also largely formulaic. 

See catwalk

 
That segued into a series of embroidered florals few of which worked, except perhaps one in pale cotton canvas, the same look Pharrell Williams wore in the front row. Sportingly attending Nigo’s show after their collaboration on Vuitton, seen on Monday. Williams sitting close to LVMH fashion group boss Sidney Toledano and French actor, Vincent Cassel. 
 
One sensed the seeds of a possible positive collaboration between Nigo and Joshua in some fluid final tailoring and quirky kimono denim. 
 
But the mood was further dampened by a mordant cellist, after a pre-show pandemonium of paparazzi for some very obscure K-pop singers. Leading at the finale to the most tepid applause this critic has heard at a Paris show in a decade. 
 
That was the lost telling moment of all.