Leave it to Giorgio Armani to have the most glittering array of stars in his couture show front row this season, all there to witness a glittering collection.
Arriving at the Palais de Tokyo for a spring/summer 2024 couture collection, as much aimed at boldface names in cinema and award season in the U.S., as billionaires’ wives clients.
A crowd of over 1,000 fans and enthusiasts crowding the entrance outside the French art institute as Gwyneth Paltrow, Glenn Close, Olga Kurylenko, Juliette Binoche and soccer legend, Ronaldo, arrived.
Inside, the Armani Privé show was staged on a runway in its signature color – pearly alabaster, in a collection that looked as much to east as the west for inspiration.
Though the big news was the selection on unexpectedly high-tech fabrics – from liquid metal like harem pants in techy silk, to technical organza columns that looked out of ‘The Matrix’.
What’s great about Giorgio Armani is that even at the age of 89 he remains open to different cultures and the idea of exploring distant worlds. One could not help comparing his very openness to the climate of closure in Italian politics, and rejection of refugees by the current extreme right-wing government.
Pairing feather light lace jackets with cascading layers of chiffon in an asymmetrical skirt. That could have been Belle Epoque-meets-Bali moment.
Throughout there was a playful lightness – acres of lace finished with delicate embroidery, along with a whole swirl of finely crafted appliqués. Giorgio also took risks with his makeup and hair, with Pacific blue eye liner, and swirls of fine braids adorning the hair and brushing the shoulders.
West embracing the East with kimono-style negligees, full skirts, mermaid dresses, small corsets and long Asian potentate jackets. And a Ko Samui-encounters-Capri palette of aquatic and precious tones – pale pink corals, jade greens, washed out blues and soft golds.
Often made from the must sumptuous display of moiré jacquards in living memory. In a word, contemporary couture, ideal for red carpet, fine soirée or elegant dinner.
Little wonder, the audience of 600 all rose in unison on their feet – cheering, clapping and whooping. The Last Emperor of Fashion had just hit another home run.
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